Domaine Huet, Le Haut Lieu Vouvray Sec

From a legend of the Loire, this dry white is a sensational example of Chenin. The nose is lithe and inviting with notes of pear, apple, quince and tangerine and an orange blossom floral character. It is full of texture on a medium-bodied palate with honey apple up front and given incredible energy by lip-smacking citrus acidity. The finish is dry yet balanced with notes of minerals and lemon zest and a hint of lanolin. This wine is all about clarity, precision and harmony. Very enjoyable now, but capable of developing for 5+ years in good conditions.

Traditionally, the drier styles (known as sec) have always had around 4 or 5 grams of residual sugar to help reign in the striking acidity. More recently though (and see this as more evidence of global warming) the levels of residual sugar have been gradually rising. One should not be too concerned over the rise in sugar levels, as ultimately the quality rests with the overall balance of the wine.